Argentinean Patagonia

What a journey to get to Ushuaia, Argentina but SO worth it! We left out of Punta Arenas on a 9am bus. We made our way for hours upon hours through the barren hilled farm lands filled with roaming sheep, cows and horses (and llamas here and there) on our way to Rio Grande, Argentina. About 5 hours into the trip and 2 apples and 5 meat sandwiches later (couldn´t take our planned meals pass the Chile border), we arrived at 2 border crossings - one to exit Chile and one to enter Argentina. The border crossings required us to exit the bus and show our passports in an unorganized line and process. In Argentina, some were asked to exit the bus as the Argentinian guard boarded the bus and looked at various packages. We were detained an extra hour due to an old man not claiming his electronics properly. We finally made our way to Rio Grande for a quick transfer to a smaller van headed to Ushuaia - world´s most southern city. This was a true adventure. We headed through icy mountain passes late at night and the driver didn´t slow down for sharp turns nor the icey roads. The van was cramped and smelley with all the people sharing the ride to Ushuaia. We were so thankful when we finally arrived at the end of the world after a 12 hour journey, even without booked accomodation. We were dropped at the main street and walked around searching for the perfect place before we finally headed 2 blocks up a hill for a hostel we saw previously. Dissatisfied with the results but booked in for one night, we set out on foot looking for other accomodations with a pit stop for cerveza and empenadas to discuss our situation. Before settling, we decided to look at one more place on the opposite end of town. We made the walk with full bellies and SO glad we did as we found the nicest hostel either of us had ever stayed in! We took a chance and headed to our other place and asked them to let us out of our contract for the night and headed back to Freestyle to settle in to our own room with a view for the next 5 nights. After a relaxing night´s sleep, we woke to the beauty of the city from our window with a view. We had a nice breakfast and coffee then set out on foot to discover the city. This day was also a special day as it was Jacques´ 31st birthday. We walked the city streets and became aquainted with this far away city. We changed our money for Argentine Pesos and talked to different people about the things to do in the city. After a nice walk and a pit stop for a beer to celebrate J´s 31 years, we headed back to the hostel for music and beer mixed with a little laundry and groceries. We had such a fun and relaxing day getting settled into our home for the next 5 days. We went for an amazing all you can eat barbeque at a great restaurant for the birthday dinner. We had delicious lamb, chicken, beef and sausage all cooked over an open fire as well as fresh veggies. A bottle of wine from Mendoza accompanied our long and tasty meal. The stray dogs were eyeing us from the streets and I couldn´t help but to smuggle some left overs out in a napkin for them. They were gone by the time we got there so we left for another lucky dog on the street corner. We had an incredible first day in Ushuaia.





It rained all night long but we woke on the 4th of June to clearer skies. The sun doesn´t rise till about 10am here and it sets at about 5pm. We had plans to trek during the day but postponed by a day in order to go out on a boat on the Beagle Channel. So glad we did as it was pristine conditions for sailing. Our 3 hour tour took us away from the city and around the sites of the channel, where the Atlantic and Pacific waters mix. Our first stop was a small rocky island, home to many sea lions. The boat took us up close and personal for the view of the sea lions in their natural habitat. The males are surrounded by 10 - 12 females. We gazed upon them for some time before heading deaper into the channel. Our second stop was a larger rock, home to schools of sea lions and fur seals. The seals were out in abundance and darting under our boat at a great speed. Hundreds of seals were playing in the wake behind the boat - jumping out of the water and swimming with us. It was a site to be had! After leaving there we circled the light house and headed back toward the port. We made a pit stop at a small island and took a short hike. We had stunning views of the channel, mountain peaks, Chilean islands and the southern most island of Argentina. The sun was shining and the beauty was breath taking! Back on the boat, it was beer o´clock with a local tap brew, Beagle. We chatted with the guide and took in the sites around us while jamming out to Bob Marley. This is the life! To warm up, we returned to the hostel for Jacques´ home made chicken and vegetable soup.







On the 5th, we woke up early for a hike at the Tierra Del Fuego National Park. Our guide from the boat trip the previous day took us into the park for less than what the bus would have cost. He picked us up a little after 9am and we saw the sunrise on the way into the park. He dropped us off at a closed coffee shop and off we went for the next 5 hours. He was to return at 3pm to pick us up. The park is empty this time of year and covered in snow and ice but we trekked on by lakes and lagoons. We were so surprised at the terrain here as it was very boggy and marshy - not what either of us expected for this part of the world. We had lunch by a HUGE beaver dam but the beavers had already gone into hibernation for winter. We did, however, see hoards of rabbits and one red fox came trotting along the board walk at the furthest southern driveable point in Argentina. It was a very nice day and our legs were tired by the time Leo picked us up again. We had left over chicken soup for dinner and headed out to try and get the local scene for live music. Half way across town, we went to a bar only to find US priced beer (vs. our $1 liter from the grocery store) and no live music for the night. Oh well, it was bed time anyway.






Today we lazed around during the morning with 2 cups of coffee and breakfast and finally got moving around 12:30pm for our attempt to hike to the glacier outside of town. We set off on foot from our hostel and hiked out of town for about 1.5 hours before getting to a stopping point up the road and hiking into the snowy hills for a lunch of cheese and crackers and fruit next to a flowing stream far below and overlooking the city. We were tired and I wasn´t loving hiking up a curvy and icy road so we headed back for town. Now we are back at the hostel for our last night enjoying beer, wine and Jacques´ steak dinner. Ushuaia is our favorite city of all of Patagonia and we enjoyed our time here, but the grey skies have moved in and we feel it is time to head North again. Off to Buenos Aires tomorrow for a quick visit before hitting the road again to Mendoza.